Favourite Forks: Summer 2018

24 September, 2018

Highlights from places that we are in and out of:
The stalwarts, the buzzworthy and those fresh on the scene 

The Coach


Roast beef and all the trimmings


Pint of prawns


Salmon rillettes

A pitch-perfect Sunday lunch at The Coach in Clerkenwell which has just won Harden’s 2018 best pub award. If you can’t make it here he also runs three other London pubs – Three CranesThe Hero of Maida and soon to open The Harlot in Chiswick.

This is also a good example of established chefs moving away from the formality of fine dining back to more simple, relaxed restaurant environment.

 

Rovi


Celeriac shawarma


Halibut on the bone

Rovi has a menu that draws heavily of current top trends, such as grilling, fermenting, pickling, plant-based eating – with a straightforward, uncomplicated approach.

The celeriac shawarma was a revelation – 6 hour slow-roasted celeriac is sliced and finished on the grill, added chilli and tomato ferment lift it to umami-rich, meaty heights, while bkelia spinach sauce and pickles complete the Middle Eastern pitta pocket perfection.

 

Laksamania

Authentic Malaysian off Oxford Street with a hawker street food style menu. A quick bowl of Singapore curry laksa – fresh and zingy, salty, sour and spicy.

 

Baozi Inn


Dan dan noodles

These noodles are now in my top 5 Soho noodle lunches, along with:
Buta miso at Koya Bar
Pho chin hue – Slow cooked beef in spicy pho at VietFood
T22 at Bone Daddies
Laska at Laksamania


Zippy ginger-juice spinach


Squeaky fresh ruby prawn dumplings in beetroot juice pastry


Pan grilled turnip cake with XO sauce

 


Traditional baozi – notable for being packed with well-seasoned pork

 
Flaming lamb skewers with cumin

 

The Wolseley


Devilled kidneys


Salt beef sandwich


Eggs Benedict

A celebratory classic Brunch, re-assuringly old school

 

Fortnum & Mason


Classic Scotch egg with infamous F&M piccalilli – the best bottled piccalilli IMHO

 

Koya Bar Soho


Raw aubergine pickled in rice wine vinegar


Sweetcorn kakiage tempura with bonito salt that added smoky umami notes


Niku miso

 

Jacob the Angel

A lunchtime pit-stop at Jacob the Angel in Neal’s Yard.

A seasonal side salad of crunchy fattoush and sweet potato to accompany a sabich – an Iraqi pitta sandwich stuffed with aubergine, slow cooked eggs, tahini and amba – made all the better
thanks to the top quality pitta.

 

Three Egg Breakfasts

La Goccia – Petersham Nurseries Covent Garden


Baked Haye Farm eggs with spiced tomato, oregano, yoghurt and nduja


Poached Haye Farm eggs, labneh, spinach and chilli


A virtuous breakfast of green shakshuka and eggs at Honey & Co – brimming with vitality 

 

The Coal Office

Thrillingly inventive food with full on flavours at the newly-opened Coal Office in Kings Cross

Standouts of the meal were:
Sweet brioche like kubalah
Only the brave chilli plate
Cantina tomato salad
East Jerusalem dumplings
Pine nuts and yoghurt
Lamb and beef kebab, hummus, aubergine and pita
and the most wonderful rice pudding to finish it off

It was all elevated by the excellent staff and the stunning tableware from with @tomdixonstudio.
Looking forward to trying more of the menu.

 

Brigadiers


Cocktail ox cheek vindaloo samosas, mixed grill sizzler, BBQ butter wings,
Brigadier’s house dal, pine nut and onion pilau

A sizzling Indian barbecue menu of must haves from the JKS Restaurant Group.

Highlights included:

Cheese & onion Bhajias, lobster shrimp kati rolls, wagyu seekh kebab
Brigadiers tandoori chicken club sandwich
Sensational soft serve finale
Beer on self-serve tap in the pool room
Champagne and punch fountains and whisky vending machines

Ticking every box of every City Boys’ wish list

 

Kiln

Still firing on all cylinders – Northern style Thai through a British seasonal lens.

Recent highlights included:
Jungle curry of brill – light, fragrant, hot and sour
Tokyo turnip and heritage beetroot salad – fresh with citrus, funky with prawn powder, roasted peanuts and sesame seeds adding crunch
Slow cooked grilled chicken and soy
The infamous aged lamb skewer treated with crisp hot lamb fat
and a deep and flavourful dry pork curry

 

Morito

Saturday morning shopping in Clerkenwell always means a quick pit stop at
Morito in Exmouth Market, and you can’t have a drink without ordering tapas, so needs must…

Gildas are obligatory in my book – the salty anchovy and warm sharp flavours of pickled green chilli, green olive and silver skin onion are the perfect match for the oaky, fruiry, dry nutty flavours of an icy glass of fino.

Salt cod croquettes and pan con tomate made up the bill and allowed another glass of fino!

 

The Quality Chop House


A Tamworth pork terrine with kernel mustard and pickled cucumber


Smoked mackerel pate with pickled mussels


Sweetcorn with dripping breadcrumbs, Kalibos cabbage with preserved lemon and
sand carrots, seeds, almonds and herbs


Dexter beef rump and brisket


Loin of fallow venison

A traditional Sunday lunch with restrained touches of inspired innovation